Subject: Re: tying and soldering Posted by: Pete on January 05, 2003 at 05:01:41: In Reply to: tying and soldering posted by dave farmer on December 28, 2002 at 14:47:45:

Message: >I am a wheel builder who feels the need to learn the art of tying and soldering spokes. Has anybody got any tips on where to start? What soldering iron i need, specs etc? >Be aware that the technique is much less valuable with small-flange hubs and few crosses. It works best on high-flange hubs with tangential lacing (3X). Make sure the spoke heads are fully seated before you tie and solder. Ride the wheels in out-of-the-saddle uphill sprints before (to help seat the heads) and after (to see how much it helps). Once the crosses are bonded to each other it's tricky to true and retension. I usually re-flux and melt the solder again after adjustments. >What wire to use. >I have been able to find 30 gauge stainless steel beekeeper's wire in large hardware stores, but that may be only because of more snobs around here (they only want their bees to feed on one kind of flower). The stainless wire will show you if you have the wrong type of solder for stainless spokes, because it won't wet the wire wrap. I have used brass and copper wire, too, but they're not as strong. That can be an advantage while you're learning, because you can heat it up and tear it off if you screw up. See if you can find some cheap hemostats (springy locking long-nose pliers used in surgery) at a hardware store, discount tool store or fishing-tackle place. You can grip and pull on the wire more easily with them. >What solder to use. >Make sure it's designed for stainless steel. It will usually also work well on brake and shifter cables, unless they're plastic-coated. It's also possible that black spokes can't be soldered because of the chemical treatment. Has anybody tried it? I usually solder with a 140 watt gun, because the tip is as small as a 30 watt iron and it has the power of a bigger one. And a light built in.