Subject: Re: re Frames and Groupsets Posted by: Al on December 14, 2003 at 10:49:17: In Reply to: Re: re Frames and Groupsets posted by John M on December 13, 2003 at 19:36:12:

Message: >Al, >Wow! Thank you for such an informative reply. I see now what you mean about the top tube measurement it is very small. I will use Lemond geometries in comparison as I hear they are good for tall monkeys like myself. These frames are 150.00 usd including shipping so they are rite in the middle of your suggested price range. I am not terribly worried about the frame weight since I could probably lose a few pounds to make up the difference anyway. I will contact the seller for more info on some of the other frame geometries and go from there. Is there a way to measure a frame for the correct fork ie measure from the bb to the hypothetical front drop out(if thats what it is called) or something like that? or are forks sold based on the tube angles? Thank you once again... The short answer is that you should look for a frame with a 73º head tube + a fork with a rake of 43mm-or-45mm. This geometry is most often found on "regular" frames in the 56cm range; and, the geometry is maintained on larger (e.g., 60cm c-c) cyclocross frames. The advantage is that the larger cyclocross frames usually have a proportionally longer top tube & wheelbase than a similarly sized road frame. Although I am a big fan of bikes with steel frames, I would recommend that you consider the Redline Conquest (about $450 _retail_ for the frame & fork ... about $1000, give-or-take, depending on the components ... less for NOS 2003 frames/bikes). If you have deeper pockets, then you can get a Gunnar Crosshair (Reynolds 853). Road frame builders tend to target a gottabeaboutonemeterlong wheelbase as their design objective. Consequently, frames with shorter seat & top tube often benefit by having a shallower 72º head tube angle; but, larger frames are often penalized with a steeper head tube angle + fork with a scant 40mm rake (Can you say unicycle? KIDDING!). Essentially, THAT is why if I were your height -- and, NOT planning to do any criterium racing -- I would get a cyclocross frame whose wheelbase & geometry SEEM rightly proportioned. If you are currently on a tight budget, look for a NOS cyclocross OR "hybrid" frameset [in your top tube size, of course] -- the latter from about 4+ years ago ... the older "hybrid" bikes tend to have longer top tubes than current "hybrid" bikes. Hope that helps.